Sunday, January 23, 2011

A Well Prepared Man

Trends of the Fall 2011 Collections to start planning for today
by Devon Burrus

2011 is still baby stepping its way into history, yet in Paris and Milan menswear designers have already decided what it will look like when all grown up. For the past two weeks men have sauntered down aisles taking the limelight dressed in Fall 2011 style. Notably color is a big player across the board as a key element for a whole ensemble, and a way to embolden dapper Mad Men like styling. January’s cold winds may still be at your back, but now is the best time to start planning for the key jacket you’ll want to add come October. Start now, and you will have the time to dig through vintage racks, catch the spring sales, and save up for a designer piece that has some extra pop. Come fall you can flip that old line from your girlfriend on its head and respond with “This old thing? I’ve had it for months.”

Fortune favors the bold, and Fall 2011 has a rich palette of deep, striking color. The strongest new statement is with robust, mulberry red. This color is solid, and rich enough that a bold man may pull off a tailored velvet version like that shown by Dries Van Noten. For the less dandy inclined choosing slacks, jeans, or a blazer in this self assured hue can make up half a look will adding more than a dash of style. Heritage looks are still continuing leading to a forest green making its way into the lineup. Another great neutral with an individual voice that can also be a reliable team player with your existing wardrobe. Just don’t pair with the red unless you’re really in a holiday spirit. Classic navy blues keep up the saturated feel, and are pervasive enough to offer the broadest range of style, and silhouette options. Browns continue to add some warmth. No need to look like a chestnut that has roasted on an open fire though, stick to natural oatmeal, dusty camel, or deep chocolate. The “it” color is bright orange, with nearly every designer crushing on it. Even more somber, brooding lines like that of Belgian Ann Demeulemeester sent out a few nearly full body ensembles in this powerful hue. As with most of the moment colors though, keep to more traditional styles when picking pieces in this shade. One should never be owned more by fashion than their personal style. For those looking for another pop color purple in a few semi neon shades is another favorite; reference John Galliano, Raf Simons, and Jean Paul Gaultier for hue variants. You’re your eyes open though, as purple is just starting to make its comeback and will last past the Fall 2011 season.

Left to Right: John Galliano, Givency, Junya Watanabe, Agnes B. Images courtesy of Style.com.

Besides the strong new directions in color, coats are a distinct element to a get-up. Double breasted looks are taking over coats and suit jackets, yet the peacoat you’ve had for the past five years wont carry over. Length is being added to many styles, think mid thigh to polo coat lengths for a little added warmth and refinement. Along the lines of classic silhouettes leather, shearling lined bomber jackets are being re-imagined in sleeker forms. Combining the motorcycle looks, and fur embellishment of the past few seasons into a more tangible form these jackets are also great for functionality. Just steer clear of vintage styles that add unnecessary weight to the girth. Another classic look going strong are school boy varsity jackets; twisted though as the jocks of yore have been squashed under the rebel geek movement. This look is for the Julian Assange, and Mark Zuckerberg type ilk who enjoy the idea of fighting back in the digital age. Indeed new renditions of the staple leather jacket are big trends in general, yet a prep twist keeps it wearable. More laid back styles have some great new developments in the form of parkas. Keeping a down to earth sensibility without looking like a ranch hand is making this style a strong new wardrobe staple. Whichever look fits your style keep in mind while sleek and tailored maybe be a current trend, a good fit never did wrong by any man.

Oh, and don’t worry about all that plaid in your closet. The Wall Street Journal is convinced it will be around for sometime to come, but then again in Portland it never died out anyway.

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